Incognito doesn't conceal quality
(Oct 31, 2009)
By John Kernaghan
The Hamilton Spectator
(Nov 17, 2006)
Say hello to a new entry on the downtown dining scene -- and it's an estimable one.
Incognito Restaurant & Wine Bar is conspicuous because of its classy setting and eclectic tastes at a two-storey operation on John Street South.
I visited twice -- in the buzz of a Saturday night and at a quieter lunch period -- and enjoyed good experiences across a variety of dishes.
As well as being kind to the palate, the small downstairs room is easy on the eyes with walls of mocha and tomato, art that's big, bold and fun, stylish wall sconces and a light sand- tiled floor.
The chairs are cushy and the table settings simple. Jazz and blues play lightly in the background.
I opted for a light approach on the Saturday evening visit, checking out items from the tapas menu.
The veggie spring rolls ($7) came as thick and bronzed fingers holding a moist vegetable mix with a pool of honey-mustard sauce for dipping.
A bed of greens provided contrasts in taste and texture and the sauce was spared the heavy flavours of commercial products.
Next up, were scallop tournedos ($10), a nice sampling of the kitchen's deft hand with the delicate seafood.
The three scallops came in baby, medium and heavy-duty size but without a wide range in cooking consistency. The biggest specimen was perfect for my taste, lightly tanned on the exterior and almost opaque at the centre.
Moreover, an orange ginger reduction was a tart and lively sidekick.
I'd been a bit disappointed no bread was offered with the tapas dishes, but on the subsequent lunch visit a basket was quickly at the table.
It came with a tub of butter and a side dish of sun-dried tomato relish and olive tapinade, an excellent start.
I opted for the gingered sesame shrimp ($10) and lunch special, venison bourguignon ($12).
The first came as five large shrimp in a panko crust with dark and white sesame treatment.
The crust, a Japanese application of coarse bread crumbs, provided plenty of crunch around shrimp that were good but maybe a tad overcooked. The gingered fruit sauce was welcome and not too sharp.
The bourguignon, meanwhile, was a hearty serving of moist and dense diced venison spilling out of a silo of puff pastry. There was plenty of protein in the savoury gravy and good science in the pastry holding the heat of the rich stew.
And whoever did the vegetables, go to the head of the class.
The combination of green beans, broccoli, peppers and zucchini was perfect, lightly buttered and spiced. The veggies came fresh, hopping hot and delightfully crunchy.
Why not dessert? Had to try the house-made product.
The lemon tart ($6) was a shallow triangle of sweet and tart lemon over a golden crust. A garnish of chocolate swirl and strawberry slices dressed up the plate.
To sum up, there was no disguising the fine tastes at Incognito.
The look: Small and intimate.
The feel: Warm and welcoming.
What you'll pay: Lunch items include Cajun salmon salad with mandarin dressing for $10, a venison burger with caramelized onions for $12 and panini du jour for $9. The tapas listing runs from $8 for roasted portobello mushrooms with Gorgonzola, rises to $12 for lamb chops with a Provencal herb crust, and tops out at $15 for pan-seared foie gras with caramelized onions.
Dinner entrees include fresh Atlantic salmon with four treatments available for $18, an 8-oz New York strip steak is $22, the New Zealand rack of lamb is $29, and an 8-oz beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola and portobellos is $32. Made-in-house deserts are $6.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday to Friday for lunch; 5 to 9 p.m. for dinner Tuesday and Wednesday, 5 to 10 p.m., Thursday to Saturday. The restaurant is wheelchair accessible.